I am very sensitive to company speeches, which is one of the reasons why I am always poor. That being said, one thing I heard from various room temperature IQ managers seems reasonable and useful: some things are important, some are urgent, some are both, and some are neither. Many of the mistakes we make in business and personal affairs are because we do not realize the difference between the two.

This is an unpleasant and unfortunate example. From 2008 to 2013, all of my tire installation work was done by a friend of my family. In October 2013, he told me that a snow tire of my Town Car should not be used for another year, and he would order replacement parts for me. On December 11, 2013, I was tired of not responding to my text messages, so I texted his wife. She told me that he was injured at work and he will be back in a few weeks. She also told me that if I went in and asked someone to install my snow tires, it would cause some problems for him and the shop owner (because he made some kind of mistake when ordering replacement tires). He needs to go back to the office for a day or two to correct that mistake so that he does not lose his job. I told her I understand that I will wait until he comes back to install my snow tires.

Well, I'm still waiting, he is still sitting at home milking his workers, and my favorite spleen was removed on January 5, 2014 after a crash on a cold road.

At the time, I judged that the importance of supporting my friend outweighed the urgency of installing snow tires. To put it mildly, it was a mistake, and when he finally quit the tire business, abandoned his wife, and left the unknown part about eight months after the incident, he fell into the realm of slight irony/tragedy.

Needless to say, since then, when it comes to installing snow tires, I have been an evangelist. I think it is important and urgent to install tires before the first major storm of every winter. Of course, unless it is not-which reminds me of today's "Ask Jack".

In May, my parents bought a 2017 Volkswagen Golf Wolfsburg five-speed manual. The purpose of this car is to drive me through high school and college. My father is preparing for a mildly dissatisfied winter, and I will start driving this winter. I heard from you and many others in the automotive field that if you live in a snowy place (I live on a steep mountain slope in West Virginia), you must use snow tires. My father disputed this, saying that winter is suitable for all seasons. Nevertheless, his top priority for me is safety. So the question I want to ask you is: Is it necessary to buy snow tires for new drivers? If so, why? What should i get?

Let me start by saying that even on a relatively modest platform like the low-power Volkswagen Golf, I don’t really believe in the adequacy of all-season tires. I think they are "seasonless" tires because they are disappointing in summer and frustrating in winter. This is especially true in West Virginia, where many towns and cities snow for 20 days each winter and there are no roads with altitude changes. I once knew a young lady living in Fairmont, West Virginia, who drove a Chrysler Crossfire on large summer tires. Every year around November 1st, she puts the Crossfire in the back of the garage and starts driving the jeep. She understands that there is no point in taking unnecessary risks.

However, in Brian's case, I think his age (under 18) and the vehicle he may use (to and from school) should be considered. As good as snow tires, there is a safer option: stay home. If you are a teenager in West Virginia and you are looking at weather conditions that require snow tires, then you'd better not travel. This does not only apply to new drivers. The trip that hospitalized me and my girlfriend nearly five years ago was completely optional. This is unnecessary. On a day when the temperature is far below freezing and the road changes every moment, I have no reason to drive 50 miles on farm roads. We just stay at home.

This is the real lesson of importance and urgency drawn from here. It is always good to have the right tires for the job. It is best to avoid unnecessary risks. If in doubt, consider staying at home. No one has crashed into their car on a trip they didn't participate in-if this doesn't sound like you see on the company's motivational poster, maybe the problem lies with the poster maker rather than the message.

For three winters, I only used Yokohama summer tires to drive the 5-sp SAAB 900S in the snow. I learned a lot about wet and slippery conditions. And I can push my colleague’s Mustang up the snow slope, so FWDFTW...Good luck to POS VW, Brian! Tires are the least you worry about.

OK. My ski bike is 85 Camaro, equipped with 5.0 V8, pneumatic suspension and strong snow tires. Regardless of the weather, I will throw 3 bags of tube sand into the hatch, raise the suspension, throw it on the ski rack, and then blow it up to the VT. Damaged heater core, no canopy, and a 3-inch Borla exhaust pipe. good time.

Jack needs to put some Hecho En China snow tires on his Hecho En Mexico Silverado, then tell everyone that he will spare no effort to buy American products anyway, and tell Trump how he will bring American coal, denim, and furniture. Millions of manufacturing, air-conditioning assembly, and newspaper printing jobs returned to the United States.

"It will be so beautiful and wonderful... I will rain like you have never seen before in human history... Trust me."

If you do use summer tires to drive in snow and cold temperatures, that would be stupid.

You are lucky, simple and clear.

However, in the United States, many people who buy "sports suits" German cars and even Subaru WRX have been doing this. I have seen countless BMWs with OE Summer Bridgestone RE050 driving in winter without any dangerous concept.

But I certainly agree with you.

That ignorance extended to them angrily saying: "Man, this is the bull!" When their M3 or RX-8 can't even get into their lane.

Well, the driveway into our culdesac is usually the only place where there is still snow. It bends upwards through the fir trees, and is in a position that makes it impossible to run in. Just having to show the tires in the lane is kind of annoying...

SAAB 900S is almost the best car in the world that uses summer tires to drive on snow. Once you start taxiing, the "Classic" 900 and "New Generation" 900 are definitely the easiest cars to control. You are sliding, but you are confident that you can place the car exactly where you need it.

When we have SAAB 900S (1998) and Subaru Impreza 25RS (1998), my wife will choose SAAB any day when it snows because she feels more confident to drive it. Both cars are equipped with the same all-season tires. In the end, I installed a set of winter tires on the Subaru because it is easy to spin in the four seasons.

My old classic 900S (1986) is unstoppable in the snow. Once I needed to move the snowplow before it came. It has heavily worn high-performance tires and is buried in a 3-foot-high snowdrift. I was shocked (not shocked) to be able to shovel it out of the snow without any shoveling. Astonishing!

The story of vvk is only so exaggerated (open arms to both sides).

I also have doubts. His story implies that the old Saab actually started on the first attempt.

@Tosh- An inexperienced driver needs to expand his safety as much as possible. Too many people confuse stupid luck with skill. Jack’s comments were really sharp, “If you have any questions, please stay home.” My father made a living by driving commercial heavy trucks. After attending many funerals for his dead truck driver friend, he developed the same attitude, “If The road or the weather are bad, why are you going out?"

Even if you drive a car with snow tires, there is another compelling reason to stay at home. All the people who drove without snow tires flew out and left their cars on the road. Therefore, no matter how good your traction is, you will not be able to get anywhere.

I installed Winterforce UV on my 4×4 Ranger. If I have time, I can spend $20 to pull people out of the snowdrift.

"I can pull people out of the snowdrift for $20."

A few winters ago, a friend of mine had the same idea. He soon discovered that the roadside handshake was untenable in court and why the towing company needed additional liability insurance.

If you can't stay at home, snow tires.

If you can't afford snow tires, stay at home.

If we can get the "climate change" that green lunatics are talking about, then we don't need winter tires or stay at home because of icy roads.

"Green Crazy"? If you haven't noticed any changes in the climate, you must be living in a cave.

Climate change is expected to make storms more severe and frequent. This includes blizzards and hurricanes.

The weather is actually just a mechanism for moving energy. As more energy is retained by the atmosphere, it will produce more peaks and valleys in the global energy distribution. As a result, as the energy tries to balance, the number and severity of storms will increase.

Regardless of the cause of climate change, this is true.

@Asdf——The mild weather in the northern part of Canada means that more freeze-thaw cycles will cause severe damage to roads. Mild weather also means more snow or worse, wet snow or freezing rain. In -25C or colder weather, roads are often in good condition.

I don't understand the logic. How do you justify going to the track and racing at high speed-the definition of almost unimportant, non-urgent travel-while advocating not to drive in the snow? The mind is dumbfounded.

Call it risk and reward-racing is risky, but you will be aware of the danger (you can work hard to reduce it), and you may get enough fun from the experience to make it worthwhile. It is very possible that on that snowy day, whatever you plan to do, you can wait until the risk is less.

Participating in a risky activity does not mean that you should try to stay safe elsewhere.

You don't have to reduce risks in all areas of life, you can gain benefits by reducing risks in certain areas.

I have never participated in a track, but I have participated in more than a few races. My general understanding is that during the race, they had no oncoming traffic. If I remember correctly, JB almost collided with TC head-on; around a bend, another car went straight for that kind of thing.

Racing can be dangerous, but I don’t think the number of deaths per mile of driving/racing on the track is close to the number of deaths per mile of driving on American roads. I admit that I may be wrong.

My memory is that JB's car slipped and was hit on the bone by an oncoming, blameless couple driving a small SUV. The Towncar's invasion resistance was very small, causing serious injuries to the occupants.

As someone who drives my car on the track, I really feel that it is safer there than on any highway. On the right track, everyone is doing the same thing, moving in the same direction, and very focused. Therefore, this is almost the opposite of what happens during your daily commute, and no one pays attention.

Because I live in Florida, I can't really comment on these SNOW stuff. However, I try to avoid unnecessary travel when it rains. I have only participated in two slight fender bends-in both cases, someone hit my rear bumper because they couldn't stop in time. It's raining.

He often rides a motorcycle to get off work, and due to the recent stunt bike accident, his bones are made of titanium alloy.

I think this is some combination of Maymar and Notapreppie. Just because you are in a hurry to become a snake tamer, there is no reason to start smoking.

Put on snow tires and when the first snow falls, find a place where you can safely drive your car on unpackaged snow and see how TCS works. It can be disturbing, and at some point, you will want to know how to disable it to make the car move before restarting.

When I was 17 years old, I drove myself, my sister and her friends back and forth to high school about 20 minutes away. Our '85 Pontiac Grand Prix was equipped with a set of snow tires-despite Mother Nature throwing at New England, it never got stuck.

A few years ago, I got the '13 Fusion, 1.6 manual, which is suitable for all seasons. An inch of snow made the car almost impossible to drive. That's it. There is no commute at all when it is forecasted to be snowy. I have driven many other front-drive cars in the snow-they are all useless without good snow.

But still listen to Jack's advice-when the snowflakes are flying, don't be on the road. Your skills will not protect you from an idiot holding a bald tire or a piece of ice next to a stone wall. wait.

I don't know golf, but the TCS on my 17-year Jetta cannot be closed.

I was curious about this so I searched it. It looks like there is no fail button in Golf 2017. I have one in the station wagon in 2012, so I am surprised that it does not exist in current golf.

My wife has a 2014 Jetta, which has no buttons at all. Obviously there is a way to connect, and ECS Tuning has an operation method and necessary parts.

"Find a place where you can safely drive your car on unpackaged snow and see how TCS works."

Good advice. When I got my study permit, my father took me to a snow parking lot to feel the feeling of sliding, sliding and ABS modulation. It’s too cheap and it’s snowing, but it’s a very important lesson to really see the feeling that it takes 10 times longer to stop and drive home.

@Frank Galvin-great suggestion. I have been taking my son out to drive, especially my eldest son who turned 16 this winter. I go to icy fields, muddy or slippery construction sites, and off-road trails. They can learn the width of the vehicle, the grip and the placement of the wheels. Last winter, I found a grass covered with ice and snow. I turned off the babysitter and put my truck on a 4×2. I showed him that you can drive with minimal rotation and sliding, and then deliberately do some sliding and correction. Then I let him do it. He was surprised at the difficulty of control. I told him that once he gets the license, he is likely to play by himself. I pointed out that if he does this, he needs to do it in a safe place.

My former best friend admonished me because she felt that I was condoning reckless driving. I told her he needed to learn, and it was very naive to think that any boy would not know how to play. Ironically, her 19-year-old son crashed two cars and was admitted to the hospital.

Great suggestion! Practicing in a safe place is absolutely necessary to understand how to work on smooth surfaces.

Snow tires are mostly extinct. They are now winter tires and are optimized for cold weather and snow and ice environments.

For me, they are not really going out, but going home. Here, it is common for snow to move from mid-afternoon to early evening. If I don't have tires and vehicles to let me go home through slippery things, I might be stuck somewhere on the side of the road.

So my children’s cars and trucks are all fitted with winter tires. In fact, when I went to the city where my children went to school last week to put winter tires on their cars, I was almost stuck and took care of it. Their 4×4 was picked up last week.

Of course, I neglected to put my car on my own car, and the snow that threatened my daughter to say "when will you change my tires" actually appeared during our dinner.

Of course I can live in one of their houses, but I have something to do when I go home in the morning. Therefore, I took the risk to take it home with A/S tires, there was no chain in the trunk. Thankfully, the snowy area is small, so I only need to leave town about 10 miles before the highway is clear. I must say that the performance of Michelin Energy Saver A/S in the fresh snow left a deep impression on me, but today I will dig out the winter tires and fasten them with bolts.

So yes, he should have some decent winter tires, don't go somewhere when it snows, but go home when it snows, and improve the safety around it when it's cold, and there are freezing spots everywhere.

I want to say that when my father owned his 69-year-old Montcalm, they offered snow tire options (two snow tires in the trunk instead of regular spare tires).

*Those* are snow tires. Basically what we call all-terrain tires today.

Yes, the rubber compound was the same back then, except that it changed from a ribbed tread to some kind of lug.

Scout, this is a good idea. "Snow" tires used to refer to tires with large solid lugs. They certainly help.

Then the Europeans came up with something. The first wss tread rubber that does not harden at low temperatures. The second is the sipe. The soft compound allows the tread to deform, so the sipes form hundreds of sharp small ridges that cut into the snow. Or melt into ice. Kind of like the working principle of windshield wiper blades. You can see this for yourself by pressing the edges of the winter tire tread blocks.

In order to obtain greater traction on the snow, the tread blocks are enlarged.

The difference between modern winter tires and old snow tires is like the difference between old tire chains with thick crosspieces and thinner "diamond pattern" chains that keep the chain in contact most of the time.

Some people argue that old tires and chains are better at chewing in deep snow, but as long as there are tread blocks, new tires will chew. If you have traction, you don't need to chew. Recent cars with deep curved air dams will plow snow to one side, so you can only drive a few inches anyway.

"Snow tires" usually have the "M&S" mark on the sidewall, which means "mud and snow". Generally, any tire tread that works well in the mud will suck on the ice.

This is what the country folks think in their pickups and old 4Runners, because they hang upside down in the ditch and their BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A spins in the air.

In fact, most (but not all) sizes of BFG AT KO and KO2 have mountain/snowflake symbols suitable for winter driving.

You can see that BFG AT tires will not work like fully sipe tires. On the other hand, if they are used sparingly in winter, they may be good enough to not require a second set of winter tires. However, many people who buy these tires are to cater to the stereotype of tough guys and are unwilling to drive cautiously. They also hate snowflakes.

This is an excellent article comparing 5 types of tires in winter conditions, including BFG AT KO2. In the road course "the grip is there, and then it's gone."

http://news.pickuptrucks.com/2016/03/winter-tire-test-some-treads-are-better-than-others.html

"You can see that BFG AT tires will not work like fully sipe tires."

I have used KO and KO2 (315/70/17, now 37/12.50/17) in Canuckistan for many years without any problems. In fact, I would say they are great in the snow, and we get a lot. But I agree that the more Siping the better, the DM-V2 we installed on my wife’s QX70 is an excellent winter tire. Too bad, they didn't score 37 points!

Brian, get special winter tires. That's because although you should stay at home as much as possible, sometimes you need to drive (because today is the final?) on some snowy days. Winter tires do have an impact on your environment.

What do you get? Almost all popular winter tires will work. Bridgestone Blizzard. Extreme winter on the continent. Generally, Altimax Arctic winter tires are a good budget choice.

Good luck in tire selection, driving (all seasons) and Volkswagen experience. And remember: don't worry.

Don't worry is good advice. Start early and give yourself time to slow down if necessary. Turn off the music and concentrate completely on driving. If the distance is long enough, driving at 20 mph will make the driving time unbearable. Please wait for the road to clear.

The events of last year's finals almost burned my son. Although his car was fitted with new winter tires, the hillside where he lived was too steep, too long, and the curve was so flat that he just couldn't pass. Fortunately, his roommate's Audi was barely able to catch up, and he was only 1/2 hour late for the final. Therefore, when he returned home after the Christmas holidays, he took our SUV with winter tires. This summer, I bought a 4wd pickup truck and stayed there. It was equipped with winter tires two weeks ago. So far, he has been engaged to that four-wheel drive several times to let it go home or go to school. This is of no avail. In the place where he lives, when the temperature rises 5 degrees and it rains in a town a few miles away, they often snow or drop below zero.

Craigslist is a good place to buy some "steelies" (basic steel wheels) and even a set of lightly used snow tires.

As far as I am concerned, I live in southern Ohio, and there has been too little snow these days. I only waited a few hours until the road was cleared instead of installing winter tires.

For golf, I bet that there are a fair number of factory aluminum wheels on Craigslist. They fit many Volkswagen cars and they should have the same bolt pattern and offset from a few years ago.

'bad weather'. When I travel for the government, this is the first thing we learn about occupational health and safety. If it is too dangerous, stay at home.

Modern "winter" tires are very different from the old "snow" tires that people have always mentioned.

While you are there, some Iron Man will install those winter tires.

No...Steelies rusty road salt. I prefer a new set of aftermarket or second-hand OEM alloy wheels. They look much better too.

Growing up with my superficial father, one of the most vivid memories of my childhood was helping him push our Civic station wagon on the hilly roads where we live on all-season tires with little legal wear and tear. He let my younger brother who is about 12 years old drive, and then my father's 9 year old and I will drive. He also drove along the same hillside in our 1989 MPV, gently bending the control arm. Once my brother and I started driving (and made a little money), snow tires topped the list. The absolute shift in winter traction. We persuaded him to buy some junkyard steel and cheap Kelly snow tires for his 2007 Fit to avoid the hard battles of the past. Nevertheless, once he bought a good low-mile '09 RX350 for my mom, my dad still stubbornly opposed spending money on snow tires, claiming that AWD would compensate. I went on to buy them for them ($1,200 with a TPMS sensor and a set of 17-inch alloys), and he reluctantly accepted the obvious help from the downhill braking distance.

Learning to drive in the snow belt towns of the Great Lakes (mainly relatively powerful rear-drive vehicles) and driving by yourself for about 10 years is good driver training.

In Madison, Wisconsin, nothing closes before -30F or a foot of snow in 12 hours. So going to work is hardly optional. Snow tires are expensive, but they will not exceed your life. After driving RWD S500 and FWD V70 with my son's tires, I am sure that regardless of the drive, they will make a big difference. Catch them. If your budget is limited, you may be able to find a second-hand kit that is already installed on the rim, and the price is only a small part of the new kit. There is an electric impact wrench for $70 on Amazon, and a nice jack + jack for $30 on Wal-Mart. No need to change tires.

In Saskatchewan, almost no one stays at home in inclement weather. It is part of our Western myth that we will safely bring the cattle home (or otherwise).

"It's best to avoid unnecessary risks."

I guess it depends on your definition of "unnecessary".

In hindsight, most things are unnecessary.

Jack has good advice here: unless you can't, stay at home.

My eldest daughter is a new driver and has no winter driving experience. Before she did this, I would drive her to the light rail in the bad morning.

In addition to winter tires, generally do not buy cheap non-brand tires. It is not worth it! Always buy the best tires you can buy. Driving a cheap car with expensive tires is better than driving an expensive car with cheap tires.

+1. I always research what kind of winter tires to equip my particular car (and the expected conditions in the area where I live). I feel very frustrated when the quality of tires used by my dealer is lower than the price I paid when I bought the CX-5. Fortunately, it was resolved before the big snowstorm last week.

I don't know if I agree completely.

Definitely research your tires, but I am very satisfied with my non-brand "falkens". It is one of those semi-fake brands. Most people call it a fake brand, but it is not one of the fake brands like "Lite Year" or "ChiipTyre".

I think it is foolish to buy "brand-name" tires just for the sake of name. Do your research and there are some great tires that most people consider to be non-branded, such as "Falken", "Kumho" and "Nokian". Frankly, I will even add "Kenda" to the list. Speaking of winter tires, although 99.99% of people have never heard of Nokia, it is really great.

Do your research, but I don't think it's just because it's "non-branded" bad. It is incredible how many people buy the most expensive tires just because of the brand, even if they may actually be worse than cheaper alternatives. There is a reason why the company spends a lot of money on advertising.

I will not call any of the products you list as a brand.

Linglong or something, yes, I will avoid it. There are also cheaper store brands, such as Mastercraft, Arizona, Big O's store brands, Barum, Ohtsu. Possibly poor performance in terms of wear characteristics or noise or even grip, but safe construction.

I have developed the habit of buying General brand tires (Continental's budget brand), and I am very satisfied with Altimax RT43, Altimax Arctic, Grabber HTS, Grabber AT2. The RT43 looks noisy on my 2012 Civic and has poor sound insulation, but it works well on my wife’s Camry. The Altimax Arctic on my 4Runner is great. Very good riding, excellent snow and wet ground grip, minimal MPG hits, favorable price. Grabber HTS is a bit loud (quiet at high speeds) when traveling 40,000 miles at a speed of 40 mph, but it has good wet grip characteristics. AT2s are also very good, very good, and very quiet. From the off-road performance I have seen so far, it is a very attractive price compared to the BFG KOs they are imitating.

> I will not call any of the products you list as a brand.

Exactly. Especially Altimax RT43 and Altimax Arctic are excellent tires, not just the price.

I have also been using Nokian tires for decades. I will call them the first echelon, as well as Michelin, Bridgestone, Pirelli and Continental.

After having a particularly bad experience with Kumhos, I vowed not to use them again. Maybe it's not reasonable, but I won't put Kumho or Hankook in my car.

We have Kumhos summer tires on our RWD Durango (Blizzaks for winter), they are an excellent 3 season tire.

Our Rogue is equipped with Kumhos, but they are a different model, and they suck in all conditions. If you are that model, I understand why you swear to give them up.

Our Avengers are equipped with Goodyear Eagle LS tires, from 0 mile to when we change them, they will suck in any tires below 50*, especially in wet conditions.

The Cobra replica has Goodyear blue stripes, and they hold everything firmly. Train like you wouldn't believe it, that's why I got rid of them.

Even if it is the same brand, the model in your tires may be different day and night.

The Blizzaks on the truck turned it into a powerful machine that allowed me to go home in those bad weather. I don't have many hills, but my ability to park and turn is great.

The car is now equipped with BFG Comp TA2 A/S, and they actually perform very well in the snow. It’s not ice, they don’t have a suitable screed and ice compound, but they do very well in the snow. If it’s light snow, I will drive without worrying, but if the weather is really bad, I will drive a truck. It will look bad if I need to go somewhere, or if I sit and work.

When I think of non-brands, I think of Linglong tires. There is also Capitol, which I think is the budget brand of the budget manufacturer (Nexen).

Falken and Kumho are definitely not outside the brand. The prices are cheap, of course, but they fill the role of value for buyers who don’t want to buy things like Michelin or Pirelli.

Nokian’s brand awareness is not very high among the driving public, but at least in terms of winter tires, I think they are higher than Michelin; they can also be priced. Nokian is far from the brand.

I hope to find Nokian Tyres online more easily. Tire Rack is very simple, but if there is a good way to buy it, I want to buy some Hakkapeliittas this year or next year.

> I wish I could find Nokian Tyres on the Internet more easily.

They are becoming easier to find online. I just bought a set on eBay last week.

Nokian plans to build a factory in the United States. They also developed all-season models specifically for US sales. 80% of their production is in Russia.

The plunge in the ruble does make Russian production attractive. The Russian market itself is a huge snow tire market (many cars in Siberia only operate throughout the year), and localized production may alleviate some currency problems, otherwise many Russian consumers cannot afford these currency problems.

It pays to do some research. Canadian tires have their own brand called MotoMaster. Some are really bad, but many are made for them by well-known tire companies like Cooper. Nokian may be "out of the brand" in the United States, but has a good reputation in Canada and Scandinavian countries.

I bought a car that I used in January and the Ford dealer installed new Armstrong winter tires. Made in China. One of them exceeds the limit of balance.

They perform quite well on ice and snow, but when they need to be replaced, the choice will be Bridgestone. In my tire size, Bridgestone has a deeper tread than Michelin. Since the effectiveness of winter tires depends on the tread depth, additional compounds mean a longer useful life.

Jack, I don't agree with suggesting that an 18-year-old guy should not go on the road when it is snowing. He is a young adult who may have been driving for a few years, and he needs to learn how to go home in the snow when he is not at school. I will let him practice driving on snow and/or ice in an empty parking lot. Once he learns how to drive a car on slippery roads, he can start learning how to drive on the route to and from school. This kind of driving is relatively safe when few people are driving on slippery roads and these drivers are driving very slowly. Dangerous places are mostly clean roads, with icy patches in shady places, plus people drive faster.

I can use B&B’s advice on similar issues-I recently moved to Central TN, and although I don’t plan to drive my summer tire rear-wheel drive car out in any actual snow, the minimum safe temperature for summer tires is How many? I have a soft top Wrangler to use on snowy days (it is hit or missed here if we have one) but it is very airy, so I hope not to use it often.

It depends on who you ask, but most recommendations are 40-45 degrees as the minimum temperature for summer tires.

I think 40-45 degrees is where they start to lose traction, but you may be okay before you freeze. After that, it is difficult to adjust your driving style based on all the traction lost.

I ran summer tires in the San Francisco Bay Area. The rear tire is 245 seconds, at 45 degrees and rainy "winter" will indeed become rough. For me, buying seasonal tires is not bad enough, but it's obvious. 45 and dryness is a hardly obvious loss, but I did leave more room for error.

Below 7 degrees Celsius or 45 degrees Fahrenheit is the temperature at which summer/season tires become too hard and start to lose grip. Certain jurisdictions have enacted mandatory winter tire laws between certain dates. In BC, most highways and routes into the mountains require winter tires between October 1st and March 31st.

I am concerned about the effect of winter temperatures on the G37's high-performance summer tires. According to my tire shop, they do lose some traction, but they are far from the difference between exposed roads and gravel in summer. If there is a possibility of snow or ice, I am careful not to drive the car out. On that thing, the stopping distance from 20 mph is at least 100 yards.

One of the best things after retirement is to be able to stay at home in inclement weather.

I can drive in bad weather-what worries me is the other idiots outside.

Yes, I tried to convince my wife that I could not convince her that she should not drive to work in the cold weather in Georgia. The soft things she had drove the day before had been frozen again. Fortunately for her, she slid back into a ditch, not a telephone pole, half a mile away from our house. She did hurt her back, but it did get better a year later. She still doesn't listen to me.

Well, you did convince her to marry you :-)

I hope TTAC can help in this regard:

I listed my blizzak tires and wheels on craigslist, and we got a bad offer that I wanted to accept.

In doing so, I will only live on all seasons and AWD.

For a long time, I have been a admirer of snow tires and like to use snow tires on 2WD cars.

However, I began to realize that in southern Ohio, 99% of people don’t even have snow tires, and like everyone else, all-season all-wheel drive may be better than all-season all-wheel drive 2 WD, and it costs $200. Changing wheels every year is a waste of money, and I don't bother to change it myself.

This article made me think twice about my decision. Should I revoke my decision? Should I keep the tires? Or I should stop being afraid and be satisfied with all seasons. The car travels about 12 miles a day on roads that usually go through plowing and salting.

I don't want to die, but I also feel like a mental preparer, installing snow tires on my car in Cincinnati, where we have enough snow or ice 5 times a year to change snow tires.

I will keep them, but then I still pull out Jack and replace it myself.

Well, if you are too lazy to change your own, I will stay at home when it is snowing or below 32°

"We provide enough snow or ice for snow tires 5 times a year." Once is enough, ask Jack or someone in a similar situation.

“It’s a waste of money to spend $200 a year to change wheels. I’m too lazy to change it myself.” Buying a cheap 250 lbft min corded impact and a floor jack makes life easier, because you’re lazy, here is the link to Amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Torin-Hydraulic-Trolley-Floor-Capacity/dp/B002E1AYAY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1510084237&sr=8-8&keywords=floor+jack

https://www.amazon.com/Capri-Tools-32200-Powerful-Impact/dp/B019WZKUW6/ref=sr_1_10?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1510084314&sr=1-10&keywords=electric+impact+1%2F2

For many years, I have been using a car jack, a $50 torque wrench and a $30 tpms reset tool to replace my summer/winter wheels.

I should be more clear when I asked this question, but the person who planned to buy my wheels and tires at 1/2 of the market value now got a "no". Now, if he gives me close to the full value, I will still sell them, but I am pulling down the list.

You crazy preparers convinced me.

The right decision, Arakh. Follow the link above and change them yourself. Don't be lazy... Drink a beer and you will get a lot of satisfaction from it.

I think you should find another store. Changing wheels/tires at $25 per corner sounds high. If you want to remove summer tires and install winter rubber on wheels over 19 inches, this is reasonable, but I think it is enough to just swap the wheels with the installed tires.

The repair shop may not be excited about this task and will charge accordingly, but the tire shop may do so for free to earn your tire business. You can also store off-season wheels.

Doing this yourself is a good opportunity to thoroughly clean the summer wheels.

You made the right decision to keep them. Will you spin your tires? Then changing your summer to winter can reduce the need to do so. So no additional costs are involved. As long as you install them. Therefore, buy some steel products, they can usually retain most of the value.

You will save the wear of summer tires. So again, no additional costs are involved.

But haven't we already discussed it? ? ? ? ? ?

$200 is included in Porsche's storage space. BMW’s storage and installation/disassembly costs are just over US$320, so I think US$200/year is reasonable. I don't know if tire shops will store them all year round at a much cheaper price.

But I think I’m pretty sure to keep them, drag them back to my house, buy a storage shed for them, and replace them myself...especially since I just learned on the Porsche forum that you don’t have to renew them. TPMS on these wheels after programming!

Our local store offers it at the same price as the rotation.

I still do it myself with a torque wrench. Since I'm lazy, I already have a compressor that can produce good enough results for just $50, so I'm thinking of getting a small effect to spin them and reopen them faster.

Can a set of tires be replaced for $200? If the store had to remove and reinstall the tires, it would be an excessive charge because you only have one set of wheels. The people you deal with are thieves!

Find an honest tire store and buy from them when you need new tires. Ask if the rotation fee is prepaid every 5,000 miles for the life of the tire. This will switch between summer and winter tires at no additional cost.

I want to say, in the local area, I think that once I decided to bring wheels (it was cold, I felt lazy) that might cost 15 dollars? There is no TPMS, just exchange one group for another. I remember Heck Discount tires can spin freely.

@arach-All-wheel drive helps speed up and uphill, but has little effect on stopping distance or turning.

A point worth making.

But to study in depth...

If there is a lock or awd center differential, it will tend to keep the front and rear wheels turning at the same speed. Especially when the engine is braking. The braking system is heavily biased towards the front wheels, which will cause the front wheels to lock prematurely on smooth roads. 4wd and awd reduce this problem and therefore sometimes reduce the stopping distance.

Awd and 4wd allow engine braking to maintain speed control in many situations instead of using brakes. I know from a lot of experience that some of them are not so good. Engine braking with all wheels engaged is much better than using brakes on steep and slippery roads. Instead of using clumsy brakes, you only need to "walk" at all corners with full dynamic traction.

For turning, isn't the turning speed of the awd rally car faster than 2wd? If the front wheel pulls in the desired direction while the rear wheel is pushing, it makes sense.

But there must be awd/4×4 that causes many drivers to be faster than turning and braking.

We used to put the gearbox in neutral so that the engine would not push the brakes, and partially engage the parking brake to offset the deviation of the front brake, so that the rear-wheel drive car crawled on steep wet roads. This is not enough, so you will gain some speed and apply the brakes. This will slow down the car, but it will lock up the front tires. So the steering is also lost. Release the brakes and regain direction, but speed up again. Repeat as needed. Even reverse the automatic transmission and refuel them a few times.

Then there are the abdominal muscles. The standard recommendation is to depress the brake pedal and let the system handle everything. But we have all seen videos of Hyundai cars sliding with all wheels locked. Or experience it yourself. What gives?

I think part of the reason is that abs does not work at very low speeds. Maybe not the other way around. Maybe another problem is that if all four wheels are locked, the abs will think you have stopped and will not release any brakes. If you are really blocked, this is exactly what you want. But if you are skating on ice, it won't work. This means you should revert to the old brake pump.

To my surprise, given the large amount of automotive news dedicated to winter driving, these issues have never been mentioned. Are the screenwriters too inexperienced in winter driving to understand these things, or do they think it is too complicated for stupid audiences?

@brandloyalty-In some cases, 4×4 or AWD helps to turn, but for most drivers, they are likely to abuse it and make things worse. In the right circumstances, compression braking is very convenient and useful. If you are using compression braking, then you are likely to pay enough attention that you do not need to test the limits of adhesion.

Northeast Indiana is here. I saw few people snow. But I also live in a big city that does a good job cleaning roads. Four years ago, I just bought new rims and summer tires for Miata Daily riders. I put them in the first week of April. On April 15th, we encountered a little freak blizzard, and the temperature was slightly above freezing. I had to take my son to work and then to work. Well done until I encountered an icy overpass. Slowly encounter high curbs and shallows. No one was injured, but Miata was burned down. The rims and tires are broken.

When I bought the Carnival ST, I was surprised that the new car salesperson didn't know that ST only provides summer tires and was willing to let me test drive in any weather.

I bought a Camaro SS with the new Pirelli Pzeros.

Opened for 2 years. My God, when there is snow and ice, I can hardly move. After spinning a few times, I had to be driven out of the parking space. too frightening.

Since my ex-wife left AWD CUV, I have been thinking about snowing. Craig's has some good deals, but my car has 205/55 R16s, and the available tires are 225s and 235s. I think it's a bad idea to go wider when it snows?

Look for double sizes... 195/60, 185/65, 215/50 are all available. Just check the load level and forum to see what works or not.

Just get the same size in winter tires...There are many options in 205/55/16.

"I think it's a bad idea to go wider when it snows?"

This is not ideal. In winter road conditions, it is best to use the tire with the highest sidewall and narrowest tread that you can install. But this is a compromise. Whenever the pavement is clean or just wet, the inventory size will be better handled.

If you want to get a good set of winter tires from an online classified website, you just have to wait patiently. Check it every day or more, because good deals sell quickly.

I use 205/60R16 on my Mazda3. The stock size is 205/55R16. My friend has 205/55R17 on his Legacy GT. The stock size is 215/45R17. In both cases, this is the smallest rim that can clear the brakes.

Increasing the sidewall height by the same width will make the tread slightly narrower because the width is measured on the sidewall.

You can check the forums to see what other people are using, but the discussions there are often ridiculous, focusing on putting the widest rims with the fewest sidewalls and the first and most stretched vehicles.

You can almost always increase the tire size by one step on the sidewall or width, usually both. It is not difficult to check whether there is enough clearance between the tire and the suspension components and between the tire edge and the wheel's rotating mudguard to install a larger tire.

Automakers tend to leave enough space for the chain, but if you use a decent set of winter tires, then a little extra ground clearance will be even more important, because only when you hang up the phone or don’t know what you are doing Will be stuck.

There is another option, which surprises me that there is no real mention: chain.

Wearing them, you can have all the traction required for normal and sensible driving in the snow in all seasons.

The modern one is much easier than the old one (you don't need to drive the car over!).

Save them until you need to go out in the snow; if most of the 20 snowy days are continuous, just *keep them*.

@Sigivald-What is important is the stiffness of the rubber compound. In 45 degrees Fahrenheit weather, you can drive on bare roads in all seasons and it's okay, but in -30 degrees Fahrenheit weather, you lose a lot of traction. This is the benefit of proper winter/alpine tires. Snow or ice on the road is a secondary factor.

Northeast Indiana is here too! Both of our vehicles are equipped with winter tires (on special rims), and tires can be obtained with acceptable safety almost anytime, anywhere. My Golf R is very suitable for driving in snow, just like my E36 M3 in daily driving.

As for just staying at home, part of your growth is learning to fulfill your obligations, whether it’s school, work, or anything else. It is not good advice to let them down because the plan failed.

Chains are a ridiculous suggestion because they cannot be used anywhere other than a large amount of snow. Unless you live near mountains or the Arctic Circle, most people’s winter driving will include cleared roads and uncleared roads. Winter tires are made for this.

What I want to say is that the chain cannot be started except in emergency situations or off-road plow trucks. I put a pair behind my 4runner just in case (it has snow tires), and frankly I haven't used them yet.

I go to places where chains must be installed or even installed in winter.

@brandloyalty-I have a set of tire chains in my garage and I have always carried them in the past. I have never encountered a situation where I thought they would save me. But then again, I became mature in my later years ;)

Timely article. I am from Florida and recently moved to Ottawa, Ontario. For many people here, wearing winter tires is not even controversial. Last winter, I took my (crappy when the weather is clear) Firestone through the four seasons. I have a brand new set of General Altimax Arctics in the garage. Uh...frugal, and since the city is very good at cleaning up the streets, I think I will keep the treads on the winter tires for better resale. I will never make that mistake again. I'm already using winter tires.

By the way, even some Canadians did not get a memo about the need for winter tires on their AWD cute cars.

Welcome to Ottawa...a land of excessive use of road salt. Let your car Krown be treated for rust prevention, and agree with the winter tires here, just do it. My rule of thumb is that as long as the temperature remains at 5C or below, winter tires will continue to be used until spring.

I was surprised that this question was never "completed". The right tire is suitable for the right season. In winter, I run Nokia Hakkapeliitta 7 studs-because we often encounter icy roads, but it rarely snows (so I don't need studs). In summer, all our cars use Uniroyal Rainsport 3 tires. In a year, we have about 220 days of rain here, and it never gets very hot. So Uniroyal's "shoulder season" tires are perfect. If we often drive at speeds above 200 km/h on German highways, it won’t be, but we don’t. Every tire has its application.

Southern Ontario is here. We do not have as much snow as Ottawa, but we may be hit hard. .My EB Mustang all-season tires are meaningless even if they try to leave the garage.

From mid-November to mid-April, I ran a set of Michelin X mounted on OEM wheels. Expensive and a bit aggravated? Yes, but the winter driving in 47 years tells me that it is worth the time and money.

Celsius or Fahrenheit? It makes a difference.

Once it reaches -45, it won't.

If there is a winter driving school in your area, please consider opening a winter driving school. A few years ago, when my daughter started driving on the highway, she might be trapped in bad weather. Our whole family participated in this: http://www.beyond.ca/2017-sasc-winter- Driver training/23832.html. This course is not only useful, but also very interesting!

If there are no suitable courses in your area, at least find a frozen lake or similar place where you can play safely on the ice. When driving a car on glare ice for the first time, you don't want other people around.

The advice given by Jack and others about staying at home in inclement weather is certainly good-but sometimes you will be attracted by rapidly changing conditions, so it's best to be prepared.

In addition to training and correct winter tires, you should also be prepared for situations where you may be trapped or stuck. In winter, you should at least have warm clothing, a fully-charged mobile phone and emergency kit in your car. For long-distance travel in remote areas, additional items may be worthwhile, such as SPOT devices used in areas without cellular network coverage, or food when you are trapped for a period of time.

In very rare cases, ResQLink is better than SPOT. Stronger signal and cheaper to own.

(The ignorance of tire buyers shocked me.)

Jack, you have reversed the terms. The urgent thing is that the phone rang because you are going out to make an appointment for an interview or parole officer. If you answer the phone, you will be late. The latter is important because it will have a great impact on your future, but it will not be filled with emergency situations like the ringing of a telephone. The important thing is the things that can be postponed, we are in danger. We often do this because many people call us "emergency." Answering the phone may also be important, or it may (and more likely) distract you from doing important things.

We used to have a Subaru wagon, which meant all-wheel drive. The use of brand new all-season tires is tolerable on slippery surfaces. When they wear out to half, the situation is already very bad. It will still climb snow-covered hills, but if there is a few inches of snow on the ice, it will not have enough traction to push the snow away and increase the height.

In the end, I got tired of this and invested in a set of unbranded winter tires with steel wheels. The next day, it snowed. I had to descend from a sloping lane to a path with sharp canopies and deep trenches on both sides. Since I expected to slide down the driveway, I carefully calculated the position of the truck so that the top would prevent me from sliding off far away without pushing me close to the side. To my surprise, I didn't slip and fall at all. The traction is almost as good as dry gravel. Later, on the same trip, I passed a trailer and pulled a 4×4 pickup from a telephone pole.

I climbed down steep, icy roads, which were too slippery to stand. I have to hang on the car to stand firm. Whick means that the tires have better traction than my shoes. One example was yesterday.

@brandloyalty-This reminds me of riding off-road vehicles in winter. We are all using cemented carbide steel racing screws on ice to get ready for running. There is a very popular place for mountain bikers, where there is a trail called a "slip". Climbing the mountain is difficult in summer, but we rode it as if on a flat ground. A partner once took the lead and missed a shift. He put his feet down to keep his balance, then fell on his head, leading the rest of us. It's interesting. Sledders thinks we are crazy because my KTM 620 has a top speed of 140 kilometers per hour.

Some people drive because of snow. For example, go skiing. Or many people live in places where the winter is long and cold.

Just yesterday, I drove a steep 10-mile gravel road with a narrow outer slope on the side of the mountain. There is no guardrail. The road is covered with snow, which has been compacted, thawed, and then frozen into ice. Encountered a 4×4 pickup, which lost traction as it ascended, slid backwards and hung on the edge of a downhill. Fortunately, the chassis caught up to the edge.

I was sure that I could not get back without losing control, so I put on my diamond chain and climbed down at a maximum speed of 20kph.

Thirty years of driving in Edmonton, Canada. In winter, the ground here has 5 months of snow. Currently driving a Lexus GS (rear-wheel drive) and snow is an absolute must. As for the untaken trips, yes, we have given up on several outings, whether it's around town or traveling to Calgary due to the weather. In addition, after a heavy snowfall, I will leave for work in 30 minutes so that the people in the truck and SUV can compact the snow for me. However, in my opinion, top snow tires are modern miracles.

I always buy complete sets of second-hand OEM alloys for winter tires. They are cheap, have no installation problems, and they ride better because their machining tolerances are better than pressed steel rims. They may even be lighter. Then you have spare oe rims.

Look, people pay extra for alloys because they look good. So why do they run the ugly steel company for half a year?

I do the same, if you are not in a hurry, you can get some discounts. It also helps to understand that other vehicles from the same manufacturer are interchangeable. My best result is a set of my wife's old Fusion. All 4 nuts with center caps and OE lugs are priced at $50. I paid $100 for my belt center cover.

My trick is to buy them when I find a deal, even if I don't need them for months.

@Scoutdude-I found a website on the Internet that lists bolt patterns and rim offsets for almost all common brands. My Ford Ranger 4×4, the 1968 Galaxie 500, my predecessor’s Sienna and Dodge Grand Caravan all have the same bolt pattern 4.5 x 5. Sienna's Type 16 can be installed on all these cars, but the larger brake discs will kill any exchange in other ways.

Yes, I bought a set of OEM alloys at a price of US$400, in new condition, plus 4 70% high-quality original low rolling resistance tires. A new alloy rim costs so much money.

Cross-compatibility information is useful, but there are too many rims available, and exact matching is usually easy. I once shipped a set of rare second-hand alloys for Grand Vitara for the entire African continent at a price of $25 per round. If you need to replace the rim, exact matching is very useful.

From an environmental point of view, it makes sense to obtain these used rims instead of making new steel rims and melting the unwanted alloy rims.

Good all-season tires are good in one situation: cold and rainy weather. Real summer tires become hard and slippery in the cold.

This is the weather we have for six months of the year, and it snows every winter *maybe* one day.

So I have "all seasons" (actually just mean "non-soft all seasons") and recommend some form of all seasons to most riders in our area. I would not do this in snowy winters or places in the sun.

Ah, West Virginia. I lived there for most of my adult life, in different places, two of which were higher in elevation and covered tons of snow. One thing I learned from WV is that small differences in location and altitude can cause huge differences in winter weather. I came down from the mountain where I lived. There was a foot of snow there and it was raining in the valley. I have been driving along I-79 in the rain, suddenly hit the freezing line, and then it rained again within a mile. And I have seen TV shows that completely broke their predictions, so staying at home is not always an option. They are likely to tell you that there will be showers in the morning. Due to temperature changes and rising terrain, you will eventually get heavy snow. Strange luck.

The problem of winter does not always leave. When the predicted light snow becomes real snow, it is going home, and you have a steep driveway, so parking is also a problem.

My advice? Install special winter tires on some steel frames. In the next four years, they will be your best friends in winter. Before freezing overnight, do some practice in the beautiful fluffy snow. Don't take risks in days of absolute rubbish. As a young driver, your definition of rubbish should be much lower than mine. Know that your skills are new and limited, and other drivers are idiots through and through. Smooth, soft, and early driving: Brake early and prepare to turn before turning. And you won't use FWD to get on the lane in all seasons. I tried something like this and it doesn't work lol.

I don’t know where you live in West Virginia, but if it’s anywhere, especially in rural areas, be prepared for the worst. things happen. I always pack blankets, snacks, foldable shovel, some extra layers of clothing, boots, woolen socks, etc. Being stuck 20 miles from Bumf**k in the middle of winter is not fun. Ask your father if he remembers people being trapped in the snow on a West Virginia toll road overnight in 2009... Yes, be prepared.

And you don't have to spend a lot of money to get good winter tires. I am very satisfied with Cooper's winter tires. Never let me down, always let me go to work and go home.

agree. I bought Firestone Winterforce tires on the junkyard steel on my old ES300 for $58. The sound is a bit loud, but it has excellent traction on snow and wet roads. Also in the parents’ fit, we have Civic Steel and Kelly snow tires. For local hilly driving, this car is perfect, and the cost is not high.

In fact, my decision was made for me. Quite simply, if my snow is not installed before November 20th, my insurance will be bad. There is no appeal. It's just no good. Given that I live in a snow belt in Ontario, this is not a bad thing. Maybe, here, it should be universal.

For a long time, the whiteboard on my desk has a four-square weekly task matrix of urgent/not urgent and important/not important. Then one day someone thought it might not be a good idea to broadcast to passers-by that I was prioritizing anything unimportant. So I changed it to value-added/no value-added.

As for the winter tires, I just installed a set of Courser MSR on The Beast and I would love to try it. The old Hankook i-Pikes will be shown on Tinivan this weekend, and I hope they will have a full season.

VW in WV with AWD is SOL.

Although I know what/why Jack’s suggestion is, doesn’t it also prevent you from gaining driving experience in winter? I know the extent to which driving in winter is "safer" rather than "safer"-light snow, no wind, light to no traffic, not heavy wet (or even light, dry) snow, 40-60 mph wind, traffic busy. I believe there is an easier way to get the experience of driving in difficult conditions, but sooner or later one will be in a difficult situation, and then learning will begin, whether you like it or not.

Must like the Eisenhower decision matrix. As a manager, I often use it. Glad to hear that I have at least one room temperature IQ. I have lived in VT all my life, from the Saab 900 that was bad in all seasons mentioned above to all kinds of Subaru with Blizzaks, I have driven. After switching to winter tires, I will not go back. Especially now I have two children to take care of. Winter tires can not only help you move forward, but more importantly, help you stop within a more reasonable distance. VT The best daily driver on bad roads is actually Subaru or CUV. You can get a little extra ground clearance to deal with crazy potholes, frost heaves and mud pits, plus AWD, can help you get out if you encounter difficulties. Compared with traditional body frame SUV, the additional benefit is that you can get better mileage.

Let's go back to Brian's original question for a moment. Is it necessary for new drivers to buy snow tires? Obviously, his safety is his father's top priority. Snow tires are specially made for snow. If you have snow, it makes sense to use them. What about dollars and cents? Think about it, if he goes to school in the next 4 years, assuming he drives well, he will experience 2 sets of tires anyway, and may even be his third set when he finishes. Instead of using the new "all seasons" in the first winter, using well-worn tires in the second winter and repeating the process, it is better to start in winter and switch to AS in the summer. In this way, you will get a better safety margin with suitable winter tires in winter, and your original tires can be used for 3 or even 4 summers. In the end, you won't pay more, and you won't get the benefits of the right tires under the right conditions. Having said that, I agree with Jack that many OE tires are non-seasonal tires, and in most cases they can only do mediocre work at best and underperform under any circumstances. Do your homework in choosing alternatives and you will appreciate the improved ride and handling. In addition, spend a few hundred dollars to participate in winter driver training courses. It is one thing to stay at home during a snowstorm, but in areas where it often snows in winter, you'd better be prepared to drive in snow unless you hibernate.

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