My daily driver is a 99-year Honda CR-V two-wheel drive vehicle. When she went to work overseas, I took over from my child. It has been used in homes since 2007, and it has been economical, reliable and only requires regular maintenance. The 20-mile drive to work in the suburbs is good-but we took our pilots on the trip because my wife refused to take the CR-V.

In the last regular service, my mechanic told me that the ride was bad, because at 237k, the struts/shock absorbers were completely toast, and replacing them would be a grand north. I checked it on the Internet, and each shock absorber is about 75 times, but the complete pillar assembly is about 225 times. All the websites I checked said that the replacement is very difficult, so I will not do this myself.

I plan to keep this car until retirement in four years, about 40,000 miles from now. What did the homestay say?

Damn any vehicle with this mileage may have terrible struts/impacts and (coil in this case) springs nearby. Why? Because, as we mentioned before, these wear items are easier to overlook than worn headlight bulb filaments. I wouldn't be too surprised if you are running on the original bit. Chances are that your mechanic is right, they are making a pig's ear for your CR-V ride.

Question 1: With the emergence of after-sales shock absorber + spring combination replacement for MacPherson Strut vehicles (such as Monroe and Gabriel), you always replace the spring and shock absorber at the same time. Even if they are not obvious, it is likely that the spring is tired to the point that replacement is a good idea. The labor factor involved in replacing a strut damper (in a McPherson strut) by removing and reusing the spring, and just throwing away the entire assembly and replacing it with a new one, is usually cheaper. Considering the benefits of the new springs and shock absorbers, this is effortless. Always get the combination. Obtain new springs when updating MacPherson pillars.

Question 2: Maybe. Only the eyes of your mechanic can be sure. I will not look around for replacing the control arm bushings because it requires more manpower to remove them, but if they break, I assume you trust this person enough to be fair to you. I wouldn’t be surprised if the end link of the anti-rocker bar might not be good, but again, it’s up to the mechanic to judge.

Question 3: In theory, a bad post will cause the spring to cycle up and down more frequently. In theory, each moving part has a limited number of cycles that it can handle before it is damaged or twisted to the point that you (or your wife?) think the ride is unbearable. in practice? A broken pillar will not directly cause the spring to fail. Usually abuse (large potholes) or rust will replace it.

Since you kept it for a while, and I saw your car replace the Gabriel "Readymount" spring and shock absorber assembly for $190 at the rear and $153 at the front, there is no problem at all to replace the shock and spring. Damn it, there are many places I have never heard of before, much less!

Send your questions to [email protected] com. If you are in a hurry, please don't skimp on the details and ask for a quick resolution...but be realistic and use your brand/model specific forum instead of TTAC to get more timely advice.

Harry, if you want to buy the entire assembly (I won't), please do yourself a favor and replace them yourself. You only need a metric socket wrench set and a little time. This job is very simple and can save you money and make you feel like you have done something. I believe you can find a video on youtube or a walkthrough topic on the forum that will guide you through the process. good luck.

Don't forget that using end links and yaw bar bushings at this age will not increase work costs, and you are already there. If you replace all of these, you will have a new car

Purchase the entire component and make it yourself. There are 4 bolts on each side on the front, and only 3 on the rear. All you need is a good metric socket set (3/4 inch driver, maximum about 19 mm), a torque wrench and a pry bar. Then pay $70 for alignment and you are done.

Front: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8QriXSIECc

Rear: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=14VDKtSQGq0

Have you done it on this car? Or any Honda? My experience with Honda is that this type of repair is easy to troublesome on most other cars, but it is completely painful on Honda. I am a good mechanic, and when the suspension of our Honda Element became soft (mechanically similar to CRV), I ended up sending it to a store. Not DIY friendly, rusty hardware, Honda dealer specific nonsense, etc. No fun. I hope you can also find a YouTube video on this particular car.

Well, the lower bolts of my 03 CRV rear strut were rusted and stuck in the damper, so I had to cut them off with a saw. In addition, anyone with two hands should be able to do it by themselves. The first generation CRV is just a rising Civic, so it shouldn’t be difficult to find the description (it’s also very simple, so it may not even be needed) and I did find the description of Element on Youtube before doing this work on my CRV .

I have an S2000 now, and an RSX-S before that. I have been suspended twice more times than I am willing to admit. Of course, when you enter the hub bearing and the hub to work, it is true for most people, which is terrible, but for screwing in and out the damper and spring assembly with bolts, I don’t have anything I can’t just It can be done with a good socket set and a circuit breaker. Compared to any of my cars, the CR-V settings look very simple, and they are also very simple.

Note: RSX does require a special ball joint tool to disconnect the end of the front tie rod from the steering arm on the strut without breaking the boot, but it is a $15 tool and I definitely made money from it.

I totally agree with Sajeev. Since the combo kit is pre-assembled, you can also get the benefit of a new pillar mount, which is a rubber bushing and plate that fixes everything on the top, so basically you get 3 pieces for each corner. If you want to proceed according to your budget, please search for 41166515150001 on RockAuto. This will provide you with a set of combined components for all 4 corners at a price of approximately $250.

You can also purchase higher-quality Gabriel devices on RockAuto for approximately $600. Complete assembly reduces labor time because they do not have to use old components that may be seized for disassembly and reassembly. We replaced the front panels of my brother Camry with a combo unit and replaced them in about an hour, so if you get a combo unit, it might be worthwhile to do it yourself, as it is usually not too complicated.

I know you may not do this yourself, but for those who remove springs from shocks, please stay away from Harbour Freight helical spring compressors. They are dangerous. You can usually buy a suitable cage spring compressor at a local store and disassemble the spring correctly for about 10-15 dollars per corner.

It is easy to change the impact. What makes it complicated (and scary) is to remove the spring from the assembly.

If you want to buy pre-assembled-do it yourself.

Or, if your springs are good (in Sajeev's opinion, if they are original, they may not be) or if you want to buy springs and shock absorbers separately, please take them to the store and let them assemble them for you. I did this on my SUV. Change all shocks to Bils-but the coil is still good. Remove everything from the truck, take them to a local store, pay $15 once for the shock absorber, remove the old spring and install the new shock absorber. Drive home and load them back into the truck.

Purchase pre-assembled. Too easy for your wallet and mechanic. After running so many miles, you want to keep this car for another 250,000 kilometers, so you should replace as many new parts as possible. If you are not confident or do not have a garage manager who can handle this type of work, give it to a mechanic you trust. In that case, if there is a problem, he is responsible, not you.

If you buy them separately, you can get a better impact. KYB will be more shocking than Gabriel or Monroe.

The old damper works here-assuming the rubber mounts and rod seals are okay, OEM strut/shock absorber assemblies with many miles and ages are better than the new aftermarket. Hey, the entire internal structure is immersed in oil. Not many car components can claim this. Harry worried about "riding." Aftermarket things usually increase the size of the piston. For example, 25.2 to 32mm. The valve has also become very stiff. The aftermarket stuff tries to solve other problems such as spring sag, suspension restraint and other high mileage failures. This leads to a log carriage ride. Also, when you invest a lot of money in parts that want to experience the difference. right?

This is my experience.

A year ago, I used the aftermarket to replace the rear pillar components on a 190K Toyota Highlander (obviously problematic, very noisy, and poor handling).

The body control has certainly improved, but with it comes the ride quality of the "log wagon", which is unbearable on rough surfaces.

Now I am discussing replacing the post pillar with OEM, but the cost is expected to be too high.

Are there any affordable aftermarket units that can maintain the quality of OEM rides?

Heycarp, the insightful post of the day is there! The only time I was able to find a damper that compromised on quality and driving handling as good as an OEM was when I made a control module. Those were usually Koni or Bilstein items, in one case a custom valve.

Why do after-sales engineers increase the damping like this? The OEM pillar on my Lexus is made by KYB. The only way to get what they say is Lexus riding is to use OEM. Other things are very stiff to ride, even the KYB after-sales pillar!

I disagree. KYB GR2 series are usually products sold by KYB to manufacturers.

I did this on my '01 Avalon 2 years ago.

Go to Harbour Freight and get their electric impact wrench and socket set. I use mine for all maintenance and it's great value for money. You will be grateful for pulling down the lug nut and the two large bolts that attach the strut to the control arm.

Spring (sorry) Complete spring/strut assembly. You get all the new 7-position bushings, and the new springs increase the ride height by about an inch, which the car badly needs. In addition, you don't have to mess up any spring compressors and the troubles/risks associated with them.

Each corner of mine is about 175 dollars.

Finally, go and align your wheels. Even though the car may be tracked correctly after installation, you still need to check it.

I said that if you want another 40K to complete it for Shanda, you can save yourself the pain of doing it yourself. You have another set of experience to check if there is any need. You should be good for 40K, no problem, assuming everything else goes well.

This is definitely a job you can do by yourself, but I want to emphasize that you must be very careful when compressing springs for removal and installation, because they are dangerous.

Seconded. If you are not careful, the two bones in the middle of your hand will end up with two complex fractures (possibly worse), and they will be fixed together with 5 titanium screws. If you are not living in a country with "free" health care (as I was fortunate enough), then a huge hospitalization fee. I must admit that compared to the 525iX spring that stretched out my hand, the spring on the CRV has almost no tension. Unless any of the bolts holding them rust, replacing all the springs and dampers on the second generation CRV is a simple "weekend" job for an "untrained" mechanic who just had too much worn-out "Cheap" cars. It’s worth mentioning that if you buy a complete pillar, you don’t have to worry about the dust cover and other small parts that will increase the cost, and you can complete all four corners in just a few hours. In my case, there are no complete adjustable shock absorbers and lower spring struts available.

Do not do. At 200k and 17 years old, this is not worth it. Unless done before, there are other suspension positions that need to be replaced. So next you know that you have spent $2,000 or more. Now is the time to drive it and fix only the things that prevent it from letting you work. Change that money.

The suspension is suitable for CRV, and the b20 may travel another 100,000 miles. This is not Volkswagen.

Interestingly, you said in this comment that it doesn't need anything else, and then just below it, you said that you think it has the same rear suspension as the Civic, so it will need a rear control arm.

In fact, even spending $1,000 on this car would put the owner in a position to marry the assailant. Well, I just spent $1,000 on the props, so I'd better do this $500 project first, then the $250 project and the $700 project. In the end, the car you get is still an old thug, which is not of high value. Not even as good as you" I have spent the past year or two. Replacing pillars is one of the more common starting points on the road to the money pit that I have seen for many years in the automotive maintenance field. I don’t know how many times I have Of customers were sold because they changed pillars, and then I couldn’t let go when I told them that doing X was not a good idea financially.

this. This is a 16-year-old car that has driven 250,000 miles. It is not even worth a thousand dollars. I don't spend a lot of money on luxury goods like this. Only repair things that make the car unsafe or unreliable. Only deal with smaller things. The last thing you want to do is to put a grand piano in a car that is approaching its useful life in exchange for something you can handle. Now, if it’s really that scary, you can buy a set of economic pillar components from Rock Auto for less than $100 per corner, but this may be a short-term solution, because economic components are usually garbage.

*If* the lower rear part is bolted to the bushing, then yes, he may need to spend an extra $80 to purchase a pair of rear control arms (plus labor). If he chooses a non-fancy Chinese suit, they will ask him to return $40 on eBay. The price of a can of oil!

We are not bankrupt here. I do understand your "marry a thug" theory, but the truth is that we don't know the condition of the rest of the car.

It is likely to have another 100,000 miles, in this case, it is well worth the investment.

I politely disagree. You are not wrong. This car may need a complete suspension overhaul. New bushings, ball joints, end connecting rods, springs, shock absorbers, engineering. It is expensive, but even if it costs $5,000, you still need $10,000 before buying a cheap new car, and you still need $20,000 before buying a new car of the same level as this CR-V.

So you bought a $1,000 car for $5,000, so what? The goal here is to keep the car in good condition while driving on the road, allowing you to be here and there. It is not an investment tool, it is just a tool in the final analysis. So do you want to spend $5,000 to achieve this goal, or $25,000? Unless the car has advanced cancer (rust), I almost always tend to repair it rather than replace it.

"It's expensive, but even if it costs $5,000, you still need $10,000 more than buying a cheap new car, and you still need $20,000 before buying a new car of the same level as this CR-V. Dollar."

This is the key point. Either way, you have to spend money, and repairs are usually cheaper than buying another car.

Frankly speaking, it is much less than buying a new car to spend one to two three dollars a year on an old car, even if the value of the car is lower than this figure.

The real question is what do you use this car for. If you wander around the city and drive 4-10k miles a year, an old car will do. However, if you drive 20,000 miles and rely on your car for work, you can't spend a few days in the store every few months for the next repair.

No, if you have to spend money to get someone to continue repairing the blender, it is not cheap to push the old blender underground. It may not be worthwhile to buy a brand new car, but in the long run, it will be much cheaper to buy a suitable latest model of used car and drive it for a year or two. The key is to buy the right car, which means finding an idiot who spends a lot of money on new quality tires, new brakes, new pillars, main services, and then quickly decides to sell it there. Then you can drive and only spend money on fuel, oil and insurance. Sell ​​it before it needs more things and you will be ahead.

So now you have $6,000 in your $1,000 car, but it doesn't matter, because you like it, because you like it, so you name it Brad. Then someone met Brad and calculated it. Even with all these new parts, the insurance company would only provide Brad with $1,000.

Therefore, you'd better take away $5,000 and $1,000, and then buy a car for $6,000.

This is a situation that Australians are right when they say that their car "owes them $xx". For most people, cars are certainly not an investment, but that doesn't mean they need to be a money pit, you should throw away a lot of them. Now, if it is a toy car and not a tool, then yes, I have every reason to spend more than its value, partly because toy cars are generally desirable, and there are others who might want it as a toy. This means that by investing $5,000, you may get an additional $250 when you sell.

The only thing I want to add, which has not been stated, is not to buy anything made by Monroe. If you do this, you will rest assured to do the work again. They are rubbish. They bottom out easily, they float, and they don't last long. Sensa-trac / Reflex or whatever they call it now is only good for trash lovers.

Edit...I believe that the rear suspension of the CRV is the same as the Civic of that era, so you will most likely have to replace the rear control arm as well. I found that in every case of high mileage, the lower strut bolts (rear) are basically close to the bushing. It is impossible to separate without damaging the bushing.

People rarely change shock absorbers/pillars as often as they should. IMO 100k should be an absolute limit, but I keep seeing the rear (or front) wheels of a car shaking like a paint mixer.

I have never bothered about those pre-assembled bags; unless your spring is broken or you have (understandably) fear of spring compressors, it seems like a waste of money.

Point 3 is completely wrong. If you stay below the fatigue limit, steel has an infinite fatigue life. View the s/n curve.

So why does the spring break and start to sag as it ages?

Corrosion and surface defects are potential problems of spring wires, which can cause breakage through stress concentration.

Surface defects may be due to defects in the manufacturing process, or impact damage from random road chips.

This makes a lot of sense.

If you stay below the fatigue limit, can't it be said that every metal has an infinite fatigue life?

There is a titanium frame on my bike. As far as I know, under normal atmospheric conditions, titanium has an infinite fatigue life (one of the reasons they use it for high-end unbreakable spectacle frames). The life of titanium springs may be longer than that of cars. I want to know how expensive they will be.

Internet search found that "Renton Coil Springs" sold them to bicycles and racing cars, but I couldn't find the price...

Incomplete. For example, no matter how small the stress is, the fatigue life of aluminum is limited. Look up the signal-to-noise ratio graph for steel and aluminum failure cycles. You will see that steel has an infinite loop below a certain stress threshold.

Does any manufacturer use aluminum coil springs?

I'm sure that at some point in history, British or Italian automotive engineers have already thought of this.

maybe not. Steel has additional properties that make it the required properties of springs, for example depending on the greater elastic deformation potential of the alloy, that is, steel can deform and spring back to its original shape. I'm not sure if there is any aluminum alloy with this material characteristic that is sufficient to make a spring, even though airplane wings do have a lot of curvature.

I have had good luck with the quick struts package, which is a good choice for shade tree mechanics. I run on some Monroes and they have a great luxury car. Monroes, which I would stay away from, are truly economical products, but so far, according to my experience, their high-end products have been very good. One set is made in Japan (pillar only), and the other set is made in the United States (quick pillar package). KYB is another good choice, but they tend to be firmer.

I would say that although the spring itself is usually good on "old" cars, it usually needs to be replaced, such as severely rusted. However, when you replace the support frame with the support frame, the price is close enough to the reasonable price of buying it as a package and saving trouble. RockAuto is a good retailer and you can get them from there.

Unless you have a wall-mounted spring compressor in your garage, I personally will guide casual DIYers not to disassemble the coil spring to put it in the pillar. This is a very dangerous job and is usually done with very rough tools, which can easily break or slip.

Based on experience, I replaced all four dampers on Saturn at about 200,000 miles. I did remove and reuse the old spring on the front pillar. The job is very simple. The only problem I encountered was to remove the bolts that fastened the pillar to the support plate. I screwed a hex bit into a spiral and tried to remove the bolt from the damper shaft. After struggling for nearly an hour, I decided to go another way and took out my trusted electric impact wrench. It works immediately. I spent $75 each on the OEM front struts and $30 each on the OEM rear shock absorbers. I also replaced the anti-roll bar bushing and end for about $40. I used a spring compressor borrowed from Advance Auto. Some people think that the traditional design is very dangerous. If you follow the instructions provided by the tool, I don’t think it will be very dangerous. If it is as bad as some people on the Internet claim, I very much doubt that auto parts stores will lend it. All in all, I spent about $250 and three hours of wrench time to complete this work.

No, sir, no, no, no. Okay, maybe a 250K mile batter. maybe. But these combinations are made up of inferior parts, which may include springs, and almost certainly strut bearings and spring seats. Compared with high-quality parts, these will either not last or perform poorly.

Springs will not wear or break unless they have been subjected to harsh conditions or unless they are of poor quality in the first place. There are stories that the springs of various cars produced by the factory are defective, but they cannot bear it over time, but these are exceptions. Therefore, unless you think the spring is sagging, cracked or broken, you do not need to replace it. If you want to save money, you can weigh the value/economic proposition based on the age and mileage of the car, but please don’t tell people to “always” replace the entire component. This is a bad suggestion.

In fact, if it does not rust, the original equipment manufacturer's spring may be thicker than the pre-assembled spring (which sags in a short period of time) and therefore has a longer service life.

Take out the components and purchase OEM parts separately, such as spring seats, and reuse the springs. If you don't want to use a spring compressor at home (the hardest part of DIY), you can take it to Pepboys or mechanics and ask them to replace the spring for you.

Now, if you only plan to keep the CRV for a few years, it may be worthwhile to buy a pre-assembled unit and screw it in.

+1, cheap rubbish including assembled pillars is just rubbish. Like many replacement parts, they are purchased at a price and developed accordingly.

If you want the same ride quality, please choose OEM, if you want to save a little money, please skip springs and some other hard parts, such as spring seats.

Sell ​​it and buy new things.

Once our next major fix for the 2002 CR-V appears, this is what we will do. These will never become classics—just a family truck—it does a great job. Even so, one day you will spend a lot of money.

Yes, although the key is to sell it before the next major expenditure, and not necessarily repair, but it can be a set of tires or a major regular maintenance item.

Using so many miles on a car of this age will never be more valuable than it is now, which will result in a lot of money being invested after bad things.

My 05 Element EX manual all-wheel drive (160k miles) needs to support all corners, all bushes and control arms (as well as clutches, positioning, tires-the same, because no matter what I put, they will be chewed every 30K- —Radiator, belt, hose, and other miscellaneous items): All in all, the maintenance cost is north of $4,000, because I will not do it myself. Some minor rust repairs are also needed. I want to keep it and fix it, my wife hates it but didn't have it, so we compromised and sold it for 4,500 dollars, completely open. I still miss it; this is the only Honda I have any character. What I want to say is, if the rest of your vehicle is still strong and you really like it, please fix it. Both of my sons drove the Element for several years and basically beat it, despite regular maintenance, which undoubtedly contributed to its early decline.

I did this for two of my cars: Integra is similar to CRV, Corolla is about 150k. I used KYB and Tokico dampers, but reused springs. They are still performing strongly on 250k and 230k.

This is much easier if you have 2 people working together, so you can arrange the bolts from the top under the hood or behind the rear seat/luggage while someone fixes the bottom in the wheel well. It is also much easier if someone holds the strut/shock absorber and another person turns the bolt on the spring compressor. The hardest part is the spring compressor. At least on small cars, the coil is small. The spring compressor may not easily grasp the opposite spring. At least once, I had to take the spring to the tire shop to compress it for me ( 50 U.S. dollars).

If you are not good at DIY, I would say buy components and call it a day. If you want to keep the spring because it may last longer, it makes sense to buy a strut/shock absorber and install it yourself (or find a store to compress all the springs for you at a lower cost).

Unless the bushing is worn, you do not need to replace the bushing (maybe the entire control arm). If you do all of this together rather than as needed, the only savings are 1) better riding, and 2) savings in alignment costs.

For the 237k CRV, I will do as little as possible, because who knows, the additional maintenance may not be rewarded.

I have used Monroe Quick-Struts on 3 different front-wheel drive vehicles with great results. Both rear springs of one of the cars were broken.

On another rear-wheel drive vehicle, I used Bilstein struts and new springs from the lowered vehicle. This involves the use of spring compressors to disassemble and reassemble the struts.

On 2 of the 3 FWD vehicles, I also replaced the front wheel bearing assemblies, I should replace them on the 3rd vehicle but did not replace them. If I am making pillars, I will also consider making FWD wheel bearings. Once they start to deteriorate, they will roar.

Thanks to all the B&Bs, I think it would be foolish to expect a consensus, but I know the situation better. I am in very good physical condition, but I am considering replacing the timing belt in the near future. I think I will wait until then to decide to suspend the upgrade. The comment about paying thousands of dollars a year to maintain the useful life of available vehicles as an alternative to buying new and used vehicles resonated with me again, thanks again to Harry in northeastern Georgia, where cars will not rust

NOOOOOOOOO You are building your own trap. Sell ​​the timing belt before it expires. Once you have completed the timing belt, then you will convince yourself to enter the pillar, and then change other suspension positions, then xxx, then xxx, and you will be married to your thug.

In the long run, newer used cars will be cheaper and worth the money, and spending 200,000 on 17-year old cars will not make them more valuable.

Another way to look at it is that at the end of the day, the new pillar will not make your wife want to ride a CR-V. It is still a CR-V and will not be a good place to kill time like her pilot. So it would be foolish to spend money on pillars for your wife to ride on occasionally. When you go somewhere together, as long as you drive her car, she will be happy, and you will have $1,000 more in your pocket.

I am honored that you have considered my suggestion. However, I want to point out that my suggestion is not necessarily correct; I just want to point out that it is a feasible possibility. Really, only you know what state your car is in. In addition, the average car payment for a "normal" car is approximately US$300 to US$400 per month, or US$3,600 to US$4800 per year. Let's call it $3500 to $5000 per year to play nice round numbers. If the state of the car is like this, in addition to changing the oil and tires, you have to pay "thousands of dollars per year" to get it on the road, then I will seek to replace it. I tend to repair rather than replace, but I will not always choose that answer.

But, for example, if you spend $5,000 to refurbish the suspension and no further repairs are expected, and I can expect trouble-free service for another 5 years or so, then I will choose to keep it on the road.

If I can make some suggestions. Perhaps it is a good idea to take your car to a reputable independent or dealer mechanic and request a pre-purchase inspection (PPI). You don’t have to sell it, but you want a full review of the car and what repairs might be made in the near future. If the PPI audit shows that it is indeed a continuous "several thousand dollars per year" tool, then I personally would prefer to replace it. But if the PPI audit shows that a car worth about $5,000 can run for another 5-10 years, then I think it's worth it.

But in the final analysis, you are of course an adult and are free to make your own choices. Please ignore me at any time and do what you think is best. I just want to point out possibilities that you may not have considered before.

I always only replace the strut itself, never the spring. The whole discussion about spring "wear"... well, if you are towing or off-road, or maybe rust, but otherwise I would doubt it. My original Japanese-made spring still performs 100% but has 200k on it, which is much better than some uncertain Chinese units based on guesswork and poor quality metals.

There are many discussions on the Internet about the wrong spring rate of the fast strut assembly for a specific model (usually the spring is too soft) and causing safety issues. Not always, but there.

I prefer to replace parts from known origins (Japan replaces my KYB, and replaces new pillar installation/bearing OEM when needed)

Oh, if you are worried about safety, here is a trick. Go to the parts store to rent two (2) compressor kits, use one pair to actually do the job, and the other pair as your safety pair. Tighten it by hand when you go to provide a backup just in case. I have no problem doing this . In some cases, such as my 1998 Toyota, I actually need 4 compressors (90 degrees apart) to compress the springs correctly, evenly and safely.

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